The Escalator And Flipper: New Boulder Problems On Flagstaff Mountain
Last Sunday Tara and I cruzed up to Flag for one of our "first" after work sessions of the season. There is just enough light now that we can get off work, cruz up to Flag, and still get in a good hour or two session. Not since last November have we been able to do so. However, because it was Sunday, and the weather was nice, most of the mountain was full. So we decided to go to the "Down the Mountain Cliffs" section to do some adventure bouldering. And boy am I glad. Not only did we find Chip's excellent Front and Center Boulder, but we also found a little problem I call Flipper. We didn't do it that day, but today we cruzed back with the idea to send it, as well as to check out the Staircase projects just down the hill.
Moving in to the "meat" of Flipper
Located behind, and just down from the Hueco Wall, Flipper is really fun. Although it goes at only around V4, because of the vertigo and nature of the climb (you basically move up and then pull on to a hanging rock, at which point you move left on two slopers to good holds, heel hook, and mantel), it feels much closer to a V6 or so. Pads are basically useless, and if you bail on the mantel it is a good 10 foot drop and roll.
Bad slopers before the mantel...
Getting scared during the mantel...
Thankfully I didn't pitch, it would not be fun...
After Flipper, we went down to the Staircase. I was psyched to try it after encouragement from Chip (thanks!). This is really a classic problem. For the movement, type of holds, and position it is one of the best on Flagstaff. I'm calling it Escalator ~V6/7. Below are the beta-intensive photos of the FA.
Start in seam at chest height, and go left...
Match hands, then cross with right to a good hold...
Match again, and then cross with right again to a good, but smaller hold...
Throw the heel hook and get ready for a big move out left...
Bump the heel and position yourself for the crux...
Scary big reach with right hand to a very bad sidepull (facing the wrong direction), your left foot is just pressing against the wall...
Hold, and then bump with the right hand to a good hold...
Bring your left up to an ok hold, and then drop your left foot to a small crystal (NOT using the rock to the left)...
Reach for the top to mantel via a high-step with the right foot...
!joomlacomment 4.0 Copyright (C) 2009 Compojoom.com . All rights reserved."
Last Updated on Wednesday, 10 March 2010 20:31
Please note: Comments work, however, in some browsers an error message is generated (i.e., Request Failed). Ignore this; the comment was generated and is waiting for approval. Rocky Mountain Raider