Home Mountains The Escalator And Flipper: New Boulder Problems On Flagstaff Mountain

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Wednesday, 10 March 2010 20:00

The Escalator And Flipper: New Boulder Problems On Flagstaff Mountain


Last Sunday Tara and I cruzed up to Flag for one of our "first" after work sessions of the season. There is just enough light now that we can get off work, cruz up to Flag, and still get in a good hour or two session. Not since last November have we been able to do so. However, because it was Sunday, and the weather was nice, most of the mountain was full. So we decided to go to the "Down the Mountain Cliffs" section to do some adventure bouldering. And boy am I glad. Not only did we find Chip's excellent Front and Center Boulder, but we also found a little problem I call Flipper. We didn't do it that day, but today we cruzed back with the idea to send it, as well as to check out the Staircase projects just down the hill.
Flipper1
Moving in to the "meat" of Flipper
Located behind, and just down from the Hueco Wall, Flipper is really fun. Although it goes at only around V4, because of the vertigo and nature of the climb (you basically move up and then pull on to a hanging rock, at which point you move left on two slopers to good holds, heel hook, and mantel), it feels much closer to a V6 or so. Pads are basically useless, and if you bail on the mantel it is a good 10 foot drop and roll.
Flipper15
Bad slopers before the mantel...
Flipper2
Getting scared during the mantel...
Flipper3
Thankfully I didn't pitch, it would not be fun...
After Flipper, we went down to the Staircase. I was psyched to try it after encouragement from Chip (thanks!). This is really a classic problem. For the movement, type of holds, and position it is one of the best on Flagstaff. I'm calling it Escalator ~V6/7. Below are the beta-intensive photos of the FA.
Escalator1
Start in seam at chest height, and go left...
Escalator2
Match hands, then cross with right to a good hold...
Escalator3 Escalator4
Match again, and then cross with right again to a good, but smaller hold...
Escalator5
Throw the heel hook and get ready for a big move out left...
Escalator6
Bump the heel and position yourself for the crux...
Escalator7
Scary big reach with right hand to a very bad sidepull (facing the wrong direction), your left foot is just pressing against the wall...
Escalator8
Hold, and then bump with the right hand to a good hold...
Escalator9 Escalator10
Bring your left up to an ok hold, and then drop your left foot to a small crystal (NOT using the rock to the left)...
Escalator11 Escalator12
Reach for the top to mantel via a high-step with the right foot...
Escalator13
Escalator14
Escalator15
Done! Excellent problem!


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chuffer |21:30:29
Nice photo-sequence, that was exactly how I envisioned it would go.
RRR |23:54:36
Thanks. It is really a stellar line, and thank to your cleaning, it is a go! :)
peter b |17:41:33
Good documentation PJ. Cool looking moves!
RRR |23:29:55
Thanks Peter. There is another cool problem in the area that you may be into.

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Last Updated on Wednesday, 10 March 2010 20:31
 
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